The opening on your coop should be 10.5" inches in height by 8.5" inches in width. If you're opening is too large install some filler 2x4s or equivalent to make the gap smaller!

CHECK THE BACK OF THE MOTION SENSOR. If the small light on the back of the motion sensor where the gray cord enters the sensor is ON then you need to turn the small flat-head screw next to it counter clockwise until that light turns off. Also clean off the glass on the opposite end where the sensor actually senses from as that can get dirty. Point the infrared sensor into open space if the first two didn't work and try it again. If it closes pointed into the air then you'll need to adjust the screw counter clockwise further.

If the clock on your door keeps randomly changing it's because the power input voltage dropped below the expected 12V input as needed to power the clock. When the control board loses power the clock will reset to 8:00 when power is restored even if just momentarily. If this is happening you can try a different power supply OR use the emergency battery pack as a full-time backup. See the other FAQ on using it as a battery backup as it needs to be sealed in a ziploc bag.

Yes, but it is designed as a temp power source meaning it's not water or humidity resistant. Add the AA non-rechargeable batteries and flip the switch to on. Place the battery pack inside a Ziploc, fold the Ziploc over, and tape it with the cord sticking out of a hole you cut. Keep the hole small to minimize potential water intrusion and tape this hole as well.This will make it much more weather resistant.

See previous FAQ first about motion sensor if the chicken coop door is open but won't close.For colder conditions the opening/closing resistance settings may need to be adjusted but first loosen the screws holding the automatic chicken door to the chicken coop. As temperature changes drastically things tend to shift which could be causing a pinch point in the door. If that doesn't work then check the Opening (7A) and Closing (8F) resistance setting. Try increasing those settings up to 5-6 to see if that helps open/close the door. Increasing the resistance setting will give the motor more power to move the door panel up and down. For good measure, add some DuPont Teflon Snow and Ice Repellent in the tracks to help prevent the door from freezing. It may not be needed, but it is an option.

The battery pack is for emergencies only it is not meant to be used to power your door all the time. If you're using the power cord then try plugging in the external battery pack with some batteries (FLIP SWITCH TO ON) and see if it's an issue with the power cord, if the battery pack powers the door properly I'll send you a replacement power cord. See the how to solar power my door tab for easy and inexpensive solar power option!

If the LED lights still come on but the door simply won't open anymore try loosening the installation screws and testing the door again. If this doesn't work you can remove the head unit and unplug everything except the MOTOR and 12VDC electrical connections which are simply snap in connections. Sometimes the torque limiter sensors or infrared sensor can cause it to act wonky. If it still doesn't open then the motor may have burnt out, email us at hello@farmlite.store and we can send you a replacement motor if you're within warranty. With the replacement ensure to not overtighten the screws into the door frame because it compresses the frame and makes the door motor work in overdrive to open/close. If you purchased the door more than 12 months ago visit our order-online page and purchase the replacement head unit. The replacement head unit has all of the upgraded motors and electronics and at $70 you have a brand new door. This price includes shipping.

We suggest starting the 4L OP setting at 4 and the CL setting at 7. Make sure to check on the door the first few days and adjust these settings as you see fit to ensure the door opens and closes around the times you desire! Remember, For Open 9 = The most light for the door to open 0 = The least for the door to open Remember, For Close 9 = The least light for door to close 0 = The most light for the door to close

Make sure your door is installed on flat level framing, if the door isn't installed on a flat and level surface it can bend the frame over time and cause this issue. Take the door off and press the test button to open and close, if it works properly then fix the levelness in the frame of coop opening. If it still is jumping then remove the head unit, flip the door 180 degrees so the front is now the back and put the door and head unit back on the frame. This should pull the bend towards the motor so the motor doesn't slip anymore. If it doesn't send me a video to hello@farmlite.store the frame may have bent or motor gears may have stripped.

The self tapping screws are meant to be installed with an electric power drill.

Ensure there are no obstructions in the door. Loosen the installation screws, the door could be compressed if the screws are installed too tightly. See adjusting the opening/closing resistance of the door in the instruction manual and increase the resistance level. If you need another copy of the manual just shoot me an email at hello@farmlite.store If this doesn't fix the door then remove the head unit and unplug everything except for the MOTOR and 12VDC electrical connectors and try it again. Sometimes the extra components can make the door act wonky.