The opening on your coop should be 10.5" inches in height by 8.5" inches in width. If you're opening is too large install some filler 2x4s or equivalent to make the gap smaller!

Most likely it has something to do with the infrared motion sensor. Try adjusting the screw on the back of the infrared sensor counter clockwise one or two full rotations then pressing the close button. Also clean off the glass on the opposite end where the sensor actually senses from as that can get dirty. Point the infrared sensor into open space if the first two didn't work and try it again. If it closes pointed into the air then you'll need to adjust the screw counter clockwise further.

For colder conditions the opening/closing resistance settings may need to be adjusted. I would check the Opening (7A) and Closing (8F) resistance setting. Try increasing those settings up to 5-6 to see if that helps open/close the door. Increasing the resistance setting will give the motor more power to move the door panel up and down. For good measure, add some DuPont Teflon Snow and Ice Repellent in the tracks to help prevent the door from freezing. It may not be needed, but it is an option.

The battery pack is for emergencies only it is not meant to be used to power your door all the time. If you're using the power cord then try plugging in the external battery pack with some batteries (FLIP SWITCH TO ON) and see if it's an issue with the power cord, if the battery pack powers the door properly I'll send you a replacement power cord. See the how to solar power my door tab for easy and inexpensive solar power option!

If the LED lights still come on but the door simply won't open anymore try loosening the installation screws and testing the door again. If this doesn't work you can remove the head unit and unplug everything except the MOTOR and 12VDC electrical connections which are simply snap in connections. Sometimes the torque limiter sensors or infrared sensor can cause it to act wonky. If it still doesn't open then the motor may have burnt out, email us at hello@farmlite.store and we can send you a replacement motor if you're within warranty. With the replacement ensure to not overtighten the screws into the door frame because it compresses the frame and makes the door motor work in overdrive to open/close. If you purchased the door more than 12 months ago visit our order-online page and purchase the replacement head unit. The replacement head unit has all of the upgraded motors and electronics and at $70 you have a brand new door. This price includes shipping.

We suggest starting the 4L OP setting at 4 and the CL setting at 7. Make sure to check on the door the first few days and adjust these settings as you see fit to ensure the door opens and closes around the times you desire! Remember, For Open 9 = The most light for the door to open 0 = The least for the door to open Remember, For Close 9 = The least light for door to close 0 = The most light for the door to close

Make sure your door is installed on flat level framing, if the door isn't installed on a flat and level surface it can bend the frame over time and cause this issue. Take the door off and press the test button to open and close, if it works properly then fix the levelness in the frame of coop opening. If it still is jumping then remove the head unit, flip the door 180 degrees so the front is now the back and put the door and head unit back on the frame. This should pull the bend towards the motor so the motor doesn't slip anymore. If it doesn't send me a video to hello@farmlite.store the frame may have bent or motor gears may have stripped.

The self tapping screws are meant to be installed with an electric power drill.

Ensure there are no obstructions in the door. Loosen the installation screws, the door could be compressed if the screws are installed too tightly. See adjusting the opening/closing resistance of the door in the instruction manual and increase the resistance level. If you need another copy of the manual just shoot me an email at hello@farmlite.store If this doesn't fix the door then remove the head unit and unplug everything except for the MOTOR and 12VDC electrical connectors and try it again. Sometimes the extra components can make the door act wonky.

If you live somewhere sunny like California or Florida then a 10W Solar Panel and 7 Amp Hour battery should be sufficient. If you are unsure if you get enough sun where you are you can't go wrong with the 25W Solar Panel and 10 Amp Hour battery.

RED and BROWN are your POSITIVE (+) Leads and should be connected together. BLACK and BLUE are your NEGATIVE (-) Leads and should be connected together.

You need a razor blade or a wire cutter to start. DO NOT HAVE THE BATTERY OR SOLAR PANEL HOOKED INTO THE CHARGE CONTROLLER WHEN CONNECTING WIRES BETWEEN THE DOOR AND THE CHARGE CONTROLLER! 1. Trim the plastic shielding off of the electrical wire. 2. Twist the electrical wires with your finger until all of the loose wires are nice and tight. 3. Either wrap them around each other like in the video or connect them with electrical butt connectors or similar and crimp them into the connectors.

If the PV light on the charge controller is illuminated but the load light is not then grab your external battery pack and put double A batteries in it, flip the switch to ON and plug it in to the door and see if it powers on. If it does then that means there are loose connections with your solar setup. Remove the wires from the charge controller and twist the wires with your fingers to get them nice and tight, flip the end of the wire around itself so it makes an upside down U and pinch it together. Insert it back to the charge controller and tighten it down. Some charge controllers come with connectors already inserted in the charge controller, if this is the case then ignore the first part and just re-splice the wires connecting the door to the charge controller as shown in the video.